La Rochere Coteau

Think about how you serve it. With 20 cl, fill the glass to about halfway, around 10 cl per glass, and top it up a few times during the meal. If you prefer to pour a generous glass for each course and swirl the wine, you’re better off with a larger bowl from the wine glasses or specifically the white wine glasses. The 20 cl tumbler of the same size sits next to the wine glass on the table for water, and the fact that they both hold the same amount makes setting the table easy. Both sizes come in packs of six, so with one pack of each, you can set a complete table.

A glass of this size calls for young, fresh wine that you serve chilled and drink promptly, not a bottle that needs hours to breathe. The size works well for an aperitif, and anyone serving a pitcher of sangria in France and Spain uses precisely this kind of small glass. The page with mocktails lists alcohol-free serves that also fit in it. Use the tumbler for water with a meal or juice at breakfast; thanks to its thick base, it stays firmly upright even on a wobbly garden table.

Coteau is pressed soda-lime glass with a thick wall and a short, solid stem. That is exactly why the range lasts: on a stemmed glass it is usually the join between bowl and stem that breaks, and here that join is short and heavily built. The glasses are dishwasher safe. Place them upright and apart in the rack, and use rinse aid if you have hard water, otherwise a dull layer of limescale settles on the wall over time.

The brand’s other collections, from carafes to larger goblets, are gathered together on the La Rochèrepage. For a sturdier everyday glass in the same spirit, see the tumblers. And those looking for the pressed-glass, slightly old-fashioned look in other shapes and from other brands can browse the vintage glasses, where pressed glassware from several glassworks is brought together.